This page gives the circuit and pictoral description of the famous
Heathkit
CR-1 crystal radio.
It was a double tuned crystal radio from the 1950's
with a series tuned primary that had a 365 pf variable capacitor and
selectable
additional capacitance on the center selector switch. In my opinion, it
would have been more logical to have made the center switch for varying
the inductance and using a tapped primary coil.

Here is a picture of the inside of the original CR-1.
Anyway the coils, marked as "transformer" in the
diagram, were both wound on a ferrite rod and the secondary coil was
part
of a tank with the 365 cap and the germanium diode for the detector
circuit.
They do not give details of the coil construction but with a little
experimentation
you can get into the BC band tuning range.
Here is the original circiut:

This shows the pictoral diagram of the inside of the set:

First Prototype
In my first building project replica I used a
toroidal
core instead of a rod. An Amidon FT 114-61 was my choice for the core,
and 45 turns of 24 GA enamel wire for the secondary gets the detector
tank
in the ballpark. (Amidon's webpage is http://www.amidoncorp.com).
I used 30 turns of the same wire would on the same toroid for the
primary
with taps at 3, 6, 9 15, 24, and 32 turns. I used the center selector
switch
to vary the inductance of the primary instead of switching in
additional
capacitors.
The little box is a Radio Shack part #270-1805 that
is just about exactly the same size as the original enclosure. The
front
panel is made of aluminum, so it serves as a common ground, but the
antenna
and one of the headphone binding posts need to be insulated from it
using
little fiber washers to prevent those binding posts from making
electrical
contact with the panel.
The radio was originally sold either with or along
side a pair of 4000 ohm Trimm Acme headphones. They were only middle of
the road for sensitivity and a good old pair of Brandes Superior or
Western
Electric 509-W's would be much more sensitive.

Here is a shot of the main parts on the floor. The
rotary switch, diode, and box are from Radio Shack. The variable caps
were
obtained from the Xtal Set Society. The coil is described above and I
got
the old mica capacitors from my junk box. I ended up using a different
coil and no padder capacitors though.
One challenge was to tap a couple of the holes on
the front face of the variable caps to allow them to be mounted to the
front panel using 6-32 screws. Care must be taken to avoid damaging the
capacitor and to keep the metal shavings out of the ball bearing
mechanism.

OK, here is the completed CR-1 clone.
This first attempt has the binding posts spaced a bit too close. I
didn't have an original to copy, just pictures. I also tried a couple
of
different coil configurations and the one I settled on has 45 turns of
24 GA wire for the tuned secondary, and the primary is tapped as noted
above.

Inside it is pretty simple. Just the 2 variable
caps, the rotary switch wired up to the toroidal coil, and the diode
can
be seen from the capacitor to the binding post on the far left.
I hooked it up and counted 6 local stations in the first minute in
the daytime, and with a good pair of headphones got 7 locals and
another
4 out of state stations on the first night.
If I ever get a hold of an original, I will post a comparison of the
performance.
OK, I got a loan of the original Heathkit CR-1 and
here is what I found.
The original CR-1 has a much more definite double tuned effect than
my spinoff. The 2 knobs for tuning the ANT and DET circuits seem to
track
pretty closely with each other and both need to be tuned to the same
frequency
farily sharply to get reception. It is easy to miss a station by not
having
the tuners coordinated. I found it best to move the DET dial a little
then
sweep the ANT knob back and forth a little to zero in on the station if
there was one there.
The circuit gurus emailed me and correctly predicted
that my circuit would pretty much function as a single tuned circuit.
The
inductance tap switch mainly varied the selectivity and I found the 9
turn
tap to be good for both sensitivity and selectivity. There was some
noticeable
tuning effect of the ANT variable cap at the high frequency end of the
dial but the DET tuner did most of the tuning. It was, however,
very
sensitive and tuned very sharply anyway. In fact the volume was louder
across the entire frequency range than the on the original CR-1, and I
was able to get a couple of weaker stations that I couldn't reach on
the
real CR-1. So overall I am very happy with the performance but I will
try
another one to try and clone the coil and performance of the original a
little more closely.
Next Version

After a lot of advice and many coils later, I think I got pretty close
to the original performance. The secret is the coil. I am told the
original
has 2 small ferrite cores in it rather than 1 long one so, I
experimented
with different sizes of cores combined with different numbers of turns
on the coil and then zeroed in on the correct spacing between the 2
cores.
The spacing between the coils could be measured from outside but the
stuff
inside the cardboard tube was impossible to discover without damaging
the
coil. It looks like the core is about 1/4 inch diameter and extends
just
to the outer edges of the coil windings when you look into the ends of
the tube. If anyone knows the exact original specifications please let
me know. Anyway, I was able to pick up the same stations with this
version
as with the original.
After many attempts and examination of an
original coil and X-ray here is what I ended up with. I used
21/44
Litz wire for the windings. The antenna coil was about 140 turns with a
9/16 inch slug inside that part for about 335 uH inductance. The space
between the coils was 10 mm or about 7/16 inch. The detector coil had
about
90 turns with a 9/16 inch long slug inside that and measured 240 uH. On
some of the coils, I tried bringing out a tap about 30 turns from the
stator
end of the winding for the detector tap. Hard to say if this made and
noticeable
difference, not much if any. This coil seemed to duplicate the
performance
of the original in both sensitivity and selectivity. Any closer spacing
of the coils and you get too much coupling and the tuning gets very
broad.
Addendum 5/29/01
Unravelling the secrets of the CR-1 coil, or The CR-1 coil Exposed
This is an actual X-ray of a Heathkit CR-1 coil. As you see, it has
the 2 coils each with its own separate ferrite slug. The best I can
measure,
each slug is about 13 mm or about 1/2 inch long by 1/4 inch diameter.
The
separation between the slugs is 7/16 inch. It looks like the slug in
the
larger (antenna) coil is not quite centered under the coil. I am not
sure
if this was intentional or not. Anyway it was helpful to know how it
was
made so one might get a better idea of how to make a duplicate.
The Amidon R61-025-400 core can be cut into the 1/2 inch
lengths for use in constructing a coil like this one. I will post
further
information as I progress with this project. Thanks Mike!
Link to
Miller
Tuner Page This is a link to a page with
more
information about another famous crystal radio, the Miller 565 / 595
Tuner.
This was my next project. The modified schematic is shown below.

Parts List:
Part Description Source, Part#
C1 2 gang 365 pf tuning capacitor from Xtal Set Society
C2 0.1 uf capacitor Mouser 5989-250V.1
C3 0.05 uf capacitor Mouser 5989-250V.047
C4 200 pf capacitor Mouser 140-50P2-201K
C5 10 pf capacitor Mouser 140-50N2-100J
C6 15 pf capacitor Mouser 140-50N2-150J
R1 100K ohm resistor Mouser 293-100K
L1 Tuning coil 1 Core from Amidon FT 82-61, see text below for winding
L2 Tuning coil 2 Core from Amidon FT 82-61, see text below for winding
L3 Negative mutual coupling coil, see text below for construction
L4 270 uH peaking coil Mouser 43LR274
L5 (marked L in schematic) 2500 uH RF choke Mouser
542-70F253
D1 1N34A Germaniun Diode
Miscellaneous hardware:
Perforated Circuit Board Radio Shack 276-1396A
Solder Tabs Mouser 534-7312
Machine Screws 6-32
Washers size 6
Tuning Knob or Dial
Cabinet Radio Shack part #270-1807
Wire for the coils and hookup
Binding posts or Fahnstock clips
The secret of this set is in the construction of the coils.
L1 and L2 are straight ferrite rods wound with Litz
wire. The best reproduction of this was to use an Amidon 2 inch by 1/4
inch diameter ferrite rod of material 61, and wind on 85 turns of Litz
wire. I had some 21 strand by 44 GA wire and this worked well. I
actually
measured the inductance of the finished coils and adjusted the windings
to get them exactly the same, to the uH, about 250 uH.
L3 is the real secret of this set. After
trying
several different core forms for this, the best seemed to be a ¼
inch hardwood dowel about 2 inches long. Wind 2 strands of the 30 GA
wire
onto the form together, side by side, close wound for somewhere between
20 and 31 turns and secure. Take the left end of strand A and the right
end of strand B and join them together for the bypass to the grounded
capacitor.
The remaining free ends go to the points indicated on the circuit.
I am told you can get the actual flyer from the Miller Company.
This circuit and the construction details are published in the
Newsletter
of the Xtal Set Society in a 2 part article starting in Jan 2002. You
can
see the construction details and alignment instructions there.
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